منابع مشابه
Rip Currents
Scientific T To examine the spatial and temporal variability of rip currents using remote video imaging techniques. T To quantify changes in nearshore circulation and topography in response to varying incident wave conditions at different time scales including; P wave groupiness (time scales of 1-10 minutes), P tidal modulation (time scales of 12h and 24 h) and P wave height fluctuations associ...
متن کاملSurf zone diffusivity on a rip-channeled beach
[1] Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and larger waves. Rip currents cause material to d...
متن کاملSurf zone surface retention on a rip-channeled beach
[1] The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a period of 3 days with normally incident swell...
متن کاملRip Currents Onshore Submarine Canyons
The long-term goals of this research are to understand the dynamics of rip currents generated by largescale variations in alongshore pressure gradients and wave forcing, and the impact of rip currents on nearshore bathymetry. These goals will be accomplished collaboratively using field observations and numerical models, and will be pursued as part of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) sched...
متن کاملNumerical modelling of induced rip currents by discontinuous submerged breakwaters
Submerged breakwaters are one of the shore protective structures. Any discontinuity in these breakwaters causes changes on current parameters including speed and water surface profile. In this paper, discontinuous submerged breakwaters were modelled to investigate the changes in the wave and flow pattern.To investigate the phenomenon, three models including a shore with constant slope, a shore ...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Nature
سال: 1965
ISSN: 0028-0836,1476-4687
DOI: 10.1038/2061249a0